The first time I noticed them was when I was around seven, at a wedding in the family. They were, to me, strange-looking men -- clad in saris and wearing women's jewellery and make-up -- singing loudly and dancing awkwardly in our front yard. Some years later, at another wedding the same thing happened. By this time I had realised they were different, unlike anyone else around us. But who were these men and why did they dress up as women?