Under colonial rule, the sanctity of the body of the sacred animal was never as contested as during the 45 years between 1880 and 1925. What today seems like a spontaneous demand for cow protection was actually shaped under the inadvertent aegis of the British Empire.
Selling The Bunyadi is of course selling liberation, according to Sebastian Lyall, the founder of Lollipop (which is the creative collective that started the restaurant). The concept is undoubtedly upmarket too: “Think luxury spa—candlelight, bamboo everywhere, fluffy white robes, and cocktails named after the elements...,” reads the blurb on the Bunyadi website. One is reminded of Slavoj Žižek’s notion that lavatories are not merely essential, but ideologically weighed and designed places -- well, then so can be restaurants, and especially one like The Bunyadi!